Victorian Era Jewelry (1837–1901): Part 1 of 4

The Victorian Era is a treasure chest for jewelry lovers—whether you’re an admirer of delicate old gold rings, a fan of sentimental keepsakes, or just deeply curious about how our relationship to adornment evolves over time. That stretch from 1837 to 1901 was more than just an era of technological advancements and sweeping social change; it was also a time when jewelry started to feel personal and wildly expressive. Each piece tells a story, sometimes hidden, sometimes shouted from rooftops (or at least from a dinner party cuff).

Let’s unpack the foundations together—how did jewelry change with Queen Victoria’s reign, and what makes early Victorian style so easy for the modern eye to spot?

Setting the Scene: What Shaped Victorian Jewelry?

Imagine Britain in the early 1800s: the Industrial Revolution is in full force. Trains barrel through new towns. The middle class is expanding and, for the first time, beautifully handcrafted (and soon machine-assisted) jewelry isn’t just for the ultra-rich. Everyday people—shop owners, teachers, newlyweds—are starting to mark milestones with rings, brooches, and trinkets. Factories and new gold sources make jewelry both more accessible and more creative than ever before.

Queen Victoria herself, with her youthful optimism and huge public following, becomes the ultimate trendsetter. She receives a romantic serpent engagement ring from Prince Albert (serpents were a symbol of eternal love), and suddenly, everyone wants sentimental tokens of their own.

Three Distinct Chapters

Victorian jewelry is usually split into three periods, and each captures a different mood:

• Early Victorian / Romantic (1837–1860)
• Mid-Victorian / Grand (1861–1880)
• Late Victorian / Aesthetic (1885–1901)

Today, I’m focusing on the first and sweetest: the Romantic period. Think hearts, flowers, and love knots—often literally.

Early Victorian Romantic Period: Style with Heart

A Time for Sentiment

Jewelry in the early Victorian years feels almost like a secret language between loved ones. Pieces from this time are infused with private meanings and inside jokes—sometimes spelled out with colored gemstones. Have you ever seen a “REGARD” ring? Each letter stands for a gemstone in the setting: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, and Diamond. These sentimental messages were all the rage.

Wearing a locket with a loved one’s hair, or a brooch with a symbolic flower or anchor? You’d fit right in at an 1850s get-together.

Motifs That Still Speak

Even if you’re not on the lookout for clues, it’s easy to spot early Victorian pieces if you know what you’re seeing. Some of the most iconic motifs and elements:

• Hearts and knots: the universal signs of affection.
• Serpents: not scary! They symbolized eternity and wisdom (and Victoria herself made them popular).
• Hands, eyes, arrows, anchors: each with their own message—protection, guidance, hope, or steadfastness.
• Nature-inspired patterns: vines, leaves, and clovers, often in beautifully colored gold.

Imagine digging through a box at an antique shop—what kinds of secret messages do you think you’d find set among those stones and shapes?

What Makes Early Victorian Jewelry Stand Out?

Metals, Stones, and Materials

Here’s a fun quirk: real gold was in short supply in Britain before the California Gold Rush. So, jewelers got creative. You’ll see:

• 18k to 22k gold (in soft yellows, gentle reds, and even whispery green shades—think 14k rather than brassy 24k tones)
• Silver, for intricate brooches and pins
• Rolled gold, gold electroplate, and pinchbeck, where a thin sheet of gold was fused to a base metal—before gold became more plentiful

If you come across a piece that looks and feels like solid gold but isn’t marked as such, try to picture a time when materials had to stretch farther.

Alternative Materials

Lack of natural gems and materials also led to some now-coveted techniques:

• Cut steel jewelry—tiny, faceted steel studs mimic the sparkle of diamonds, creating brooches, drop earrings, and hairpins. In the candlelit world of the 1800s, these must have shimmered at every turn.
• Aluminum—freshly discovered and trendy, prized for its brightness and lightness.
• Cameos, micro-mosaics, and painted miniatures—perfect for personal keepsakes.

Revolutionary Techniques

The Victorian knack for innovation is visible in their methods:

• Repoussé: Hammering metal from the back to create raised, detailed patterns—think scrolling leaves or finely textured flowers.
• Cannetille: Dreamy, embroidery-inspired filigree patterns, made from thin gold or silver wires, which look almost like spun sugar.
• Claw and collet settings: For gemstones, letting more light in, or surrounding the stones with a hug of metal.

The Social Side: Jewelry as Connection

I believe that in this era, jewelry became a part of everyone’s day-to-day life.

Middle-class women could purchase a small sentimental brooch or ring—a simple silver locket, a seed-pearl bracelet—without having to be fabulously wealthy. These pieces were exchanged as friendship tokens, engagement gifts, or even mementos of mourning.

Imagine gifting someone a brooch in 1850—maybe in the shape of two clasped hands, or a tiny heart lock. What message would you want it to carry? And how would you want it to be worn—tucked close to the heart, or proudly displayed on a dress lapel?

Visual Cues: Spotting Early Victorian Jewelry

If you’re trying to identify a piece from this period, look for:

• Lush, detailed floral or scrollwork patterns
• Unusual gold hues (soft rose or green gold, not the bright yellow of today’s 24k)
• Delicate symbolic shapes: hearts, bows, knots, clasped hands
• Creative gemstone arrangements (spelling words or initials)
• Surprising materials: cut steel, hairwork, micro mosaics

Have you ever found something in your own jewelry box that fits these descriptions? I’m always curious what stories are lurking there.

Wrapping Up Part 1

Early Victorian jewelry is both romantic and resourceful—each item packed with intimate meaning or clever design because, for many, jewelry was less about show and more about sharing a piece of the heart. In the coming parts, I'll explore how Victorian jewelry evolved with the Queen, including heavier designs, darker materials, and finally, the wild inventiveness of the Aesthetic era.

Have a favorite symbol from this era, or a charming old piece you love to wear? Keep your eyes open next time you’re near a jewelry box—there’s always at least one story waiting inside.

Cheers, 

Peter

P.S. Stay tuned for Part 2, where we’ll step into the grand and sometimes somber heart of Victorian jewelry, shaped by both love and loss.